It was May 2009, and unlike Tirana’s hot and sticky afternoons, the early evening air was calm and pleasant. I exited Broadway Hotel, my small and friendly, pseudo-Egyptian themed lodging in search of Albania’s first—and only—Indian restaurant, Ashiana.
India Gunsen Shah and his Albanian wife Erinda opened Ashiana in early 2007. Despite the lack of a vibrant Indian community in Tirana, the restaurant has done well. So well, in fact, that to cope with high demand Mr. and Mrs. Shah relocated Ashiana to a larger space on Rr. Dervish Hima, near the U.S. Embassy. Ashiana now sits around 75 people and on calm summer nights diners can access an outdoor terrace. Tirana’s 3000+ expatriates look to Ashiana as a unique and refreshing alternative to traditional Albanian, Italian and Mediterranean cuisine.
I read about Ashiana in Tirana’s In Your Pocket guide, a resource I would highly recommend to anyone traveling in Eastern Europe. Ashiana boasts traditional vegetable curries and biryanis and an expansive menu of chicken, lamb and seafood appetizers. Even if the menu neglects to mention certain dishes (the south Indian dosa pancake, for example), the chefs are adept in Indian cuisine and cheerfully promise to cook up and spice anything they have ingredients for.
When I walked into Ashiana just past seven, I was immediately greeted by a dog, skittering circularly around the restaurant. Despite a No Smoking sign out front (and 2007 legislation that banned smoking in public establishments), the one other occupied table was puffing away, a thick haze of grey hovering over the table. Interestingly enough, while ashtrays might be harder to find, most Albanian restaurants have largely ignored the public smoking ban. When I enquired as to why the restaurant was so empty, the server mentioned that the lunch thali (for 700 lek, or around $7) had been more popular that week.
The menu was, as expected, extensive. I ordered chicken tikka masala (#53, 600 lek or $6) with some vegetable samosas and garlic naan. The food was standard British curry house fare—the spices were mild yet rich in taste. I ordered a fresh fruit juice from a separate health-conscious menu, and it was so good that I ordered another one. I didn’t realize it at the time, but since my first juice had depleted the restaurant’s fruit supply, the server, in an attempt to satisfy my order for a second juice, had bolted out of the restaurant to seek out fresh fruit.
Five minutes later, the server came back in through the front door, slightly out of breath, with a plastic bag teeming with fresh bananas, strawberries and the like. If this is the kind of service one can expect at Ashiana, I’ll most certainly be coming back. The next time I’m in Tirana, of course.
Restaurant Details:
Ashiana
I-5/6, Rr Dervish Hima (behind stadium near the Sheraton Hotel and U.S. Embassy)
+355 69277 4459
info@buy-albania.com
Hours: open every day 11:00-23:00
Twitter Updates
@Ed: That’s too bad Ed. Too bad indeed. If you find anything, please keep us posted. In the meantime, I’ll be sending good currylicious thoughts your way.
Well I went up and down that road many times and it really does not exist. So no curry anywhere in Albania.
Hi
I will be traveling to Tirana from uk on the 2nd August.
It’s going to be my first time and going to be there for 2 weeks meeting the in laws
anyone else going to be there around the same time.
Could do with a drinking and clubbing friend.
Don’t speak a word off Albanian and I feel I will get bored and left out.
let me know …tariq3118@hotmail.com
I am in Tirana and looking for an Indian restaurant, just came across this page through Google. Will go investigating tonight and update. Haven’t come across any other Indian-origin people in Tirana yet. I travel a lot and usually try to have one Indian meal wherever I am during my stays, to see the variation (or not) in Indian restaurant cuisines – let’s see what tonight brings.
@Michael: That’s too bad, Michael! I guess it must have shut down, then
Did you end up finding any other Indian restaurants in Tirana?
I tried looking for the restaurant today, March 28, 2010, and could not find it. In asking several people around the US embassy (I’m from the US), they had no idea where it was when finally I walked into a grocery store/market – the lady said it’s been closed for nearly a year. Is this true?? Or is it simply hidden?? Any advice from anyone who has visited the restaurant [recently] or has any details would be much appreciated!
@Alan: Just to confirm the location. It is the one opposite to the big empty plot next to the stadium right? i.e the first left turn if you come from the US embassy side.. will go and check again
@Pramod: I verified this morning with a local hotel that the restaurant is still open. I’d recommend doing the same–perhaps they can give you better directions.
i tried calling their number now.. seems they have barred all incoming calls.. or the number might have changed. No news either on location change
@Pramod: Well that’s no fun! Are you sure that it’s closed? I called them up not too loo long ago (December 2009) to verify that they were open. They may have moved locations since you last visited.
Guys this restaurant is closed now. Had been there twice but could not find it.
Thanks for your valuable help Alan.
Good Luck
@Vimal: That’s quite an expensive call for me, Vimal. If you need help finding the restaurant, try asking people in the street near the stadium, or walk into a hotel and ask reception for a map. I’m not from Albania, and there’s nothing I could tell you over the phone that would help other than what’s already written above. Good luck to you!
Thanks for your information Alan.
Can you please call me @ my mobile +355 695201419. I like to ask some more informations.
@Vimal: The restaurant is in southeast Tirana, behind the large stadium, near the Sheraton Hotel and U.S. Embassy. Hope this helps!
Could any one tell me, where the ashiana restaurant is present. I tried the phone number but couldn’t find or reach.
Can some one help me to find this hotel. Please.